By B. Johns

ISBN-10: 044442153X

ISBN-13: 9780444421531

This booklet offers a radical therapy of either theoretical and observational facets of the interplay among the sea-floor and the near-sea-floor dynamics; the impression this has at the distribution of inner and seabed rigidity; and the relevance of the linked dynamics to sedimentation techniques. The theoretical paintings defined concerned either analytical and numerical modelling reviews of quite a lot of near-shore and shelf methods. those offer a helpful shop of knowledge at the interplay among the sea-floor and the dynamics of the overlying water. The ebook additionally comprises an account of tidal research suggestions and the way those are being utilized within the research of tidal present measurements. The observational stories relate to measurements of near-sea-floor turbulence and sand-transport within the littoral region.

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**Extra resources for Physical Oceanography of Coastal and Shelf Seas**

**Sample text**

40 and 41. In respect of these equations, and in the extreme case of a prediction of total wave-energy reflection ( a R= u ) , i t has been found from this iterative procedure that the size of the reflected wave given by eq. 40 is overestimated by 25%. This is, of course, the worst possible case and, for smaller reflected waves in the perturbation solution, the overestimates are considerably smaller. Despite its shortcomings, however, the strength of the present method, which is strictly valid only for relatively small reflected and transmitted waves (IT/ << l@l), is in providing an estimate for the size of the reflected wave in the first place.

N: Fig. 12. Results for the peak reflected wave amplitude ( h R ) obtained as ( 2 k / / ) is varied. The results are plotted as functions of h / h with m = 1-10. for steepness h / = 7r/20. 2 since the scaling assumptions start to break down in this region and. 5 since here the reflected energy flux is likely to be overestimated by at least 10%. In both of these regions the curves are dashed. plotted. More generally, it may be shown that, for given h / h and m , the larger the ripple wavelength the greater is the size of the reflected wave.

29 that V ( x , t ) is given by the real part of: ~ ( xt ,) = C , [ i / c o s ( / x + S ) + k s i n ( / x + 6 ) ] e x p [ i ( a t - k x ) ] (39) where: C’* = gukh/a cash( k h ) Hence, from eqs. 32, 36 and 39, the perturbation potential is given, in the limit + - w , by the real part of: x Similarly, from eqs. Y + + 00, by the real part of: cp(x, Y , t ) = C , ~ ( Y ) ( k / l ) [ ( - I ) " ' - ( - l ) " ] i e ~ p [ ~ ( ~ f - k k x ) ] (41 ) It may be noted that the outgoing waves in both eqs. 40 and 41 are properly attenuated with depth.

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